its best if u call jim, that always works.
i also just bought a new hondata unit after mine was stolen.
Now, the guy that put the JR bandaids back in after my JRSC was stolen is charging me $350 to reuninstall the JR MAP mod, BTC, and VPAC. the price includes installing the entire hondata S2b unit again including the RC 550 low impedence injectors, AIT sensor, resistor box, and conversion harness. i personally think he is pulling me leg, because that is alot on labor.
Im really short on cash after xmas and i am going to tackle this myself, because my JR FMU is shot, and im running 70psi on fuel pressure@idle and static and getting some really bad gas mileage. so im going to tell you guys what im going to do and correct me along the way.
First, (this is where you come in Jim) I need to send in the hondata ready P28 and hondata S2b to MVM so Jim can put a basemap for his MVM pulley on a b16a2 99 civic si, because there is already a map for a turbo application on it. How much do you charge for this Jim and you will take paypal for this?
Second, I need to reverse the installation of all the JR bandaids according to the JR manuals at their site back as if I never had the map mod, vpac, and BTC.
Third, pull off the JR FMU and connect the lines back to the stock FPR.
Fourth, I know I need to connect the resistor box, but, where?
Fifth, After connecting the resistor box, i need to splice the RC 550 low impedence injectors into the current injector wire harness.
Sixth, cut, solder, and extend the current AIT sensor on the 99 civic si with the 90-91 teg AIT sensor into the rear of the JRSC manifold.
Seventh, pull out the b16a2 p2t ecu and replace it with the new base map p28 and hondata s2b using the conversion harness.
Eighth, Dyno tune.
If I am missing anything, please let me know. this is where my searching has taken me to.
its best if u call jim, that always works.
Yes, I accept Paypal.
Call me on Monday and we can work out all of the little details.
I would say that your list above (outline) is fairly thorough...
As for wiring the resistor box, I suggest you hold off until Monday after we discuss it... I believe I can offer up a solution that will be reversable... and NO wiring will have to be cut.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">roger that on monday.Originally posted by JRCivic:
Yes, I accept Paypal.
Call me on Monday and we can work out all of the little details.
I would say that your list above (outline) is fairly thorough...
As for wiring the resistor box, I suggest you hold off until Monday after we discuss it... I believe I can offer up a solution that will be reversable... and NO wiring will have to be cut.
so your going to trade me for saturated 440s eh [img]wink.gif[/img]
Why did you buy Peak-and-Hold Injectors ?!?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">it came with the hondata package. seller not willing to part. i was desperate, and was a very damn good price. couldnt refuse it.Originally posted by JRCivic:
Why did you buy Peak-and-Hold Injectors ?!?
concerning the relocation of the map sensor, cant i just use my 3 bar map sensor w/pigtail spliced into the oem map sensor wiring and keep the oem map sensor where it is and just connect the vacuum hose from the 3 bar map to the manifold? will this hurt if im only running on the mvm pulley and not going over 11 psi?
Concerning the AIT sensor on my comptech icebox. after chopping off the 2 wires off the AIT, can i use thin insulated wires to connect and extend it to the manifold?
Also, the fuel line going in the JR FMU, is the line that will go in the stock FPR on the fuel rail............correct?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Actually Jim, i think i have what your talking about. this wire injector harness came along with the injectors. the clips for the PnH RC 550s fit into em. the resistor box is already on and wired. the end of the wire where my index finger is at is cut. im not sure if the two connectors at the end above the resistor box is usable on my vehicle, i havnt even looked yet. there is also a wiring and connector for the AIT im assuming, because, thats the teg AIT sensor I bought from honda connected to it.As for wiring the resistor box, I suggest you hold off until Monday after we discuss it... I believe I can offer up a solution that will be reversable... and NO wiring will have to be cut.
like i said, im not sure if this will work. maybe i can scavenge some things off this.
go ahead and start doing the JR bandaid removal as soon as you get time. It is very easy. Cut the wires in pairs as they are color coded. and resolder the original harness back together. everything is color coded and all you have to do is match the colors and thats it. you do not need instuctions unless you are color blind thaen you got problems. I had the Vpak, JR BTC, Map mod, and a J&S safeguard. I uninstalled all of that and had the car running in under 2 hours. remember to go to radio shack or a similar place and get lots of shrink wrap tubing this will help the process and make it look professional. also use only rosin core solder do not use acid core. then Buy a proper jumper harness for you car and ECU that all. If you need help email [email protected] I will do my best to help you
Well, that is not quite what I was going to suggest... however, you are getting "warmer". The harness that you show in your pic is from an OBD-0 car... it looks like a converted 88-91 DX/LX engine harness from the driver's side.
My suggestion would have been to go to a junkyard and find a '92-95 Prelude (Accord might work too) GREY PLUG resistor box and the plug (engine harness side) that goes with it. Trace the power wires from the injectors back to the junction plug (it could be on the driver's side near the firewall OR under the intake manifold/blower). Remove the four wires from the junction plug and insert them into the plug from the engine harness side of the Prelude resistor box. The fifth wire merely needs to be connected to any of the four open holes on the junction plug. Now, if you ever want to switch back to use SATURATED injectors, you can simply cut the wires on the resistor box side of the plug and join them (yes, all five) together. This effectively removes the "resistance" from the 12v+ feed wires.
Yes, you can use your GM 3-BAR with the Hondata and ingnore the stock MAP sensor. It must be unplugged...
As for the IAT extension... yes, use good quality fine stranded wire in anything from 14 to 18... maybe even 20 gauge and lengthen the pair of wires as necessary.
Remove the fuel line found in the middle of the JR FMU and connect it to the FPR found on the fuel rail. Basically, you will be removing the fuel line that runs from the rail FPR to the side barb (radially, it is close to the perimeter of the bottom side of the JR FMU) and the JR FMU itslef... and connect what is left !!!
ooooooooooo, i get it [img]biggrin.gif[/img] so basically, i can just use the clips on my si right now for the PnH 550s and just hook up the 92-95 prelude obd1 resistor box to the SI's harness using the prelude plugs.
what time do you close on saturdays Jim. I like many others have to work on weekdays for a living [img]graemlins/cry.gif[/img] Alabama is EST i believe.
Alabama is located in the CENTRAL time zone... which is two hours later than you. My hours are 11am to 3pm on Saturday.
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